Coffee and pastries secured, we piled into the car and headed for Combourg. The market was in full swing and we mooched about looking for only the finest in French foodstuffs and Liberian slave labour made clothing. Eventually we grabbed a couple of chickens, some blood sausage and onions and a big box of roasted baby taters for lunch down by the lake. Along the way we saw the usual fruits and veggies, along with an even more impressive display by the critter vendor. Gotta admit I am getting anxious to get back to the US and start on the new rabbitry.
 |
| Bunnies! |
 |
| Quail. Much easier than hunting them. |
We had a marvelous lunch by the lake, watching coots and ducks paddling about the mirror smooth water. Nice to be outside eating a meal, its something we don't do enough of at home. Kim took delight in maliciously scaring the ducks. That was an omen of things to come.
 |
| Lake at Combourg avec hoodlums. |
 |
| Roast chicken, taters and blood sausage. Very fine china from Ikea as well. |
Back in the car, we set off for Dinan with the intent of walking the old dirt path to Lehon. Along the way we saw signs for a Chateau(with giraffes!) so a side trip was in order. Before we got to the highway for the chateau, a cute little town called Melliac offered us a quick stop to look through the church and town square. Pretty church, not terribly old as near as we could tell(grave marker in floor read 1772 or something...bah!) but the wooden barrel vaulted ceiling was really quite incredible. We took just enough time to snap pics and jump back on the road.
The Chateau was picturesque and the alley of trees lining the entrance was something out of a postcard. Pics were taken, much hilarity ensued. When we got the to the actual chateau we were horrified to find out they wanted $20 per person to walk through the house and grounds(with giraffes, no joke). Bit steep for us! $10 we will drop in a heartbeat, $20 for an hours tour is way out of line. So, back in the car.
 |
| Alley of trees lining road to Chateau. |
 |
| Le Chateau Asshat avec Giraffes. They have a zoo apparently... |
Yet again the steering wheel jerked to the right forcing us off the highway to check out a little roadside chapel we have seen every time we went to Rennes. We assume it is called "Our Lady of Oh Hell I'm Lost in the Woods". If not, it is now... Cute little chapel, all locked up but we managed a pic of the simple little stone altar and flowers with a hand written sign saying simply, "Thank You". Someday we will find the story behind it.
 |
| Our Lady of Oh Hell I'm Lost in the Forest |
 |
| The altar, shot through the keyhole. |
Back in Dinan after a quick stop at the grocery(ok after an hour of goofing off in the funny French supermarket) we headed up the footpath to Lehon.
Exiting by the car park under the viaduct, we followed the well worn path in the river bottom. Gardens plots, small Breton houses and at least one Troglodyte house(a classic form of French house half cut into a rock face or built into a natural cave) lined the river banks.
 |
| Riverside house |
 |
| Private garden allotments in the river valley. |
 |
| A Troglodyte house built partially into the hard rock cliffs. |
The woods got deeper, more lush and spookier every step we took. This didn't look like France anymore. Lots of Jurassic Park and Predator references were made. "Makes Cambodia look like Kansas", etc...
 |
| Pictures really don't do this mess justice. |
Halfway there we came across something we never had any clue existed. None of the guide books mention it, none of the locals told us about it. Sometime in the past, poplar trees had been planted in regular rows along the banks of the Rance, possibly to control soil erosion or other issues. Whatever the reason, the effect now is a cathedral of trees reaching to the heavens. Dead silent, a gentle wind knocking leaves off the trees, it was by far the most peaceful and glorious place we have been in years. A hidden gem, just a few minutes walk from our front door.
 |
| Ryan and Kim at the Alley |
 |
| Poplars, ancient oaks and ivy. |
 |
| The Cathedral of Poplars |
Our walk slowed as we marveled at the canopy above us. It probably took us longer to get through the alley of poplars. Hundreds of pictures were taken, and there was an embarrassing amount of just standing and staring at the wonders.
Once in Lehon, we took the time to fully explore the little town and found even more charming homes on the other side of the Abbey. This is a town we could live in quite happily!
 |
| This needs to be our new hometown. |
Back at the Abbey, Kim and Ryan took the time to snap even more pics and we damn near had an international incident when Kim could not keep her damn jam hands off the 12th century baptismal font. I swear, some people you cannot take anywhere!
 |
| Seconds before the French Antiquities Gendarmes hit her from 3 directions with tazers and dogs. Big dogs! |
We bailed Kim out of prison and promised to take her right home. Instead we went over to a lovely little bar that sits in the shadows of the fortifications of Fort Lehon. Not bad at all. Having a cidre and wine while gazing up at 14th century defenses doesn't suck.
Fortified with drinks and a chocolate bar, we hiked the broken and uneven steps up to the top of the fort. Massive stone towers and a beautiful grassy courtyard we ours to play on all alone. Unfortunately the restoration work back in the early 2000s was done to preserve the fort as is, not to restore it to any historical accuracy. Still, it was a great treat to stand at the top of history and fantasize about holding a tournament there.
Back down the hill from the fort, we stopped for another round of pics in Lehon before the walk back to Dinan. Once again we got lost in the wonder of the woods, taking far more time than a casual stroll would normally take, but it was so well worth it.
 |
| Awwwwwwwww..... |
At home we went through pics, made mac and cheese with compte' cheese, pulled bbq chicken from our leftover lunch and a nice salad. Most were in bed early again.
That was an amazing day. A perfect balance of driving, spontaneous sight seeing, hiking and surprises.
A day like Monday is why we travel.
those trees........................... l o v e
ReplyDelete